No one ever said there aren't enough food options on Rochester's Park Avenue. But only three have made it longer than 40 years. And they all happen to share the same block adjacent to the Berkeley Street intersection — Park Avenue Pub and Restaurant, Jine's Restaurant and The Frog Pond — who have established themselves as landmarks in a landscape of revolving businesses. The Park Avenue Pub serves only dinner. The baton was passed in 2011 from the original owners of 38 years to Scott and Sheila Schalm. During the Schalms' five-year tenure, they have preserved the pub's intimate if not romantic setting and classic creations from the kitchen. Twinkling gems hang from the ceiling like costume jewelry, every so often adding a sparkling glimmer of light around the modest-sized dining room. A small bar sits at the back while diners enjoy window views of Park Avenue activity. There's an air of nostalgia reminiscent of an era when dining out was a more formal event. The menu reflects Continental cuisine, using traditional cooking techniques and focusing on pasta, seafood and steak. You won't find pub-style burgers, fish and chips or flowing taps filling pints of foam-capped brews. You will, however, satisfy your oenophilic side through the vast wine selection. ►VIDEO: Park Avenue Pub bartender demonstrates an Old-Fashioned An affordable three-course menu for $30 includes your choice of soup, salad or roasted mushrooms over puff pastry with Parmesan cream sauce, plus an entrée with a variety to choose from and finish with dessert all made in house. If you happen to visit on a Sunday there's a featured filet and crab cake combination for $30. Once you've made it through the plethora of specials, you'll still find plenty to sort through in the standard menu. Familiar fare the likes of a fried calamari appetizer and a lamb chops entrée are interspersed with more uncommon dishes such as a chicken-fried oysters appetizer and a calf's liver entrée. The Signature Crab Cake Appetizer ($13) with Asian-scented aioli was presented as a micro salad. Two petite crab cakes sat above undressed field greens. Slices of cucumber and halved grape tomatoes rested alongside. Sweet lump crabmeat was the primary focus with a nice golden crust. Impressively, not a single shell was to be found throughout — I habitually anticipate that inevitable awkward crunch. A peach-hued, umami-rich aioli drizzle overtop was a welcome departure from traditional French remoulade. In the ravioli, large squares of untrimmed pasta sheets are sandwiched together and filled with spinach, ricotta and pine nuts. (Photo: AMANDA ANTINORE) A featured special entrée was the ravioli ($18) . Large squares of untrimmed pasta sheets were sandwiched together and filled with spinach and ricotta. Pine nuts added an unusual texture to the filling, although I would have preferred them to be toasted. The under-seasoned pasta was saved by a bright tomato sauce utilizing fresh chopped tomatoes boosted by chiffonade basil and shredded parmesan. Sliced roasted pork tenderloin ($18) bathed in roasted garlic Parmesan cream sauce was another daily special. The pork was fork-tender and enhanced by the creamy, cheesy and aromatic sauce. My daughter the meat-lover went straight for the steak. Our server recommended the twin 3-ounce filet mignon with mushroom duxelle ($24) . Although it was an option from the three-course menu they prepared it à la carte. Cooked medium-rare to order, effectively seasoned tender and small fillets of beef bared crosshatch grill marks driving its char flavor. To take things further, a stainless steel gravy boat contained a savory brown sauce speckled with minced garlic and shallots. The twin 3-ounce filet mignon with mushroom duxelle shows grill marks. (Photo: AMANDA ANTINORE) Green beans and carrots were served alongside all main courses — even the ravioli. And fluffy mashed potatoes came with the filet and tenderloin. The texture of the potatoes was satisfyingly lush, though all vegetable accompaniments could have used more seasoning. For a timeless, upscale dinner experience including service with a smile and bygone fare, Park Avenue Pub is your spot. Park Avenue Pub & Restaurant Location: 650 Park Ave., Rochester; (585) 461-4140; parkavepub.com. Hours: dinner, 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays; closed Mondays. Bar: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily Appetizer: $7 to $20 Roasted garlic Parmesan cream sauce enhances sliced roasted pork tenderloin. (Photo: AMANDA ANTINORE) Entrée: $8 to $32 Diet: Can accommodate special requests and dietary restrictions. Handicapped accessible: Yes; wheelchair friendly. Reservations: Yes. Kid-friendly: Yes. Attire: Casual. Credit cards accepted: Yes; All major credit cards. Parking: Lot adjacent to building off Park Avenue; free on-street parking.
