Over at the north end of Windermere, The Samling (thesamlinghotel.co.uk) is one of the Lake District’s most luxurious addresses, tucked away on a private drive. A stately elegance. Doubles from £280
Howe Keld (howekeld.co.uk) is the pick of Keswick’s numerous B&Bs. Rooms are sleek and contemporary, and breakfast treats include pancakes, veggie rissoles and fresh smoothies. Doubles £90 to £130.
Keswick’s thoroughly modernised YHA (keswick@yha.org.uk) has a riverside location overlooking Fitz Park. Dorms from £18, doubles from £45.
Start with a twilight cruise across Derwentwater aboard the Keswick Launch (01768 772263; keswick-launch.co.uk). The lake looks at its best in the light of early evening, bathed in pastel colours.
Have supper at Morrels (01768 772666; Lake Road, mains £10.95 to £19), a townhouse bistro that serves modern British dishes among pop-art prints and gloss-wood floors.
Pop down homely pub the Dog & Gun (01768 773463). And drink with a clear conscience: for every pint of Thirst Rescue, the Dog & Gun donates to the Keswick Mountain Rescue Team.
Pick up a gourmet picnic from Pumpkin (01768 775973; 19 Lake Road), Keswick’s classiest artisan café, and stroll up to the Castlerigg Stone Circle, dramatically sited on a hilltop outside Keswick.
Hop into the car and drive south into Borrowdale, perhaps the quintessential Lakeland valley, with its patchwork of dry-stone walls, bottle-green meadows and slate-topped cottages.
After visiting Borrowdale, stop off at the local beauty spots of Lodore Falls and Watendlath Tarn.
Pop in for homemade scones and jam sponges at the Flock-Inn Tearoom (01768 777675; borrowdaleherdwick.co.uk; cakes £3 to £5), a farmhouse café in the little hamlet of Rosthwaite.
Perched between Borrowdale and Buttermere is Honister Slate Mine (01768 777230; honister-slate-mine.co.uk), where you can take a tour into one of the disused mines (£9.95/ £4.95 adults/ children).
If you're staying in Keswick, head three miles north to Bassenthwaite Lake where you can spy on England’s only resident ospreys from two treetop hides in Dodd Wood.
Lunch at the excellent Pheasant Inn (01768 776234; mains £12 to £20) . It’s a Lakeland classic, full of hunting prints, beams and hearths, and it serves superb country food.
