Michael Vagnetti

"Beef tartare has a top crust of crunchy farro, and is served with an egg yolk nestled in anchovy dust on the side. It's a delicate style, finely minced, with horseradish."

"Crack into the husk meringue (made from burnt, blended corn husks). It's a delicately sweet/savory pod filled with a mousse of cream, sugar and mascarpone."

"On the salumi platter, the lonzo ("lomo" in Spanish") was meltingly sweet."

"Fluke had zucchini blossoms stuffed with lemon and barley and then tied into a pouch."

"A chestnut cake served on a slab of cool, jagged slate..."

"51 Belgians, and proper glassware."