A theatrical greenhouse-like space with checkerboard floors and a retractable glass roof sits atop an early-20th-century mansion. You can’t go wrong with the taco del río, made with langoustines.
Fashionable locals crowd the high-ceilinged dining room for long, loud, convivial lunches, especially on weekends. The ideal meal: oysters and grilled porgy painted with green and red sauces.
